The first dinner was passed at the restaurant Montana* (Ginza)
Restaurant-boat for about 150 guests sails away from the Hotel “Ukraine”. Two hours of evening raw along the Moscow River. Menu-improvisations on Russian themes. Among interesting: imitation of soil on vegetables. First dishes are served in disassembled state, in parts, greens – in paper bags. Taking into consideration the post-Soviet topic in music and partly in menu, the restaurant is tailored mostly for corporate parties and tourists.
Next day in the pouring rain we ran up to the restaurant Fish * (Ginza, owner is Alexander Orlov), Plotnikov Lane, 15 (Old Arbat). Fish restaurant is designed for people with a lot of money and for those who want to find themselves near. Eat well is possible for 4500-5000 rubles, but for “attending” it can be cheaper. Chef Bruno Marino is from Sicily. In Moscow he works for a long time, he rather guesses than he knows, understands but the tastes of Muscovites with a purse.
In interior there are a lot of artifacts, sharks made of automobile tires (Yong Ho Ji), monkeys by Ilya Chichkan from the personal collection of Orlov. The atmosphere and fresh fish deserve a careful and unhurried contemplation. Subject of the visit was private tasting of autumn menu update.
Degustation at Fish.
We tried: Pasta: risotto with porcini mushrooms and clams, risotto with tomato and monkfish; risotto with wild berries; green fettuccine with shrimp and curry; red fettuccine with mascarpone, spinach and black caviar; pappardelle with duck; tortellini with pumpkin. Soups: Soup with beans and sole; mushroom cream soup with trout fillet. Hot dishes: sole fillet with grapes; dorado fillet with ginger, leek and potatoes; salmon fillet with mushrooms and spinach; sea bass fillet with polenta, clams and black olive pesto. Desserts: Sicilian cannoli; pistachio flan; anise frittelle with gold in chocolate sauce. After tasting 70% of dishes were accepted with minor refinements.
Bruno shows a live scallop. Besides Bruno shared the secret of one dessert and pasta.
The next day lunch at a half-empty La Maree on Petrovka. Chef Zitouni Abdessattar (Tunisia), one of the first foreigners who came to Moscow in the 90s. It is tasty here and uncompromisingly expensive. The staff is courteous, helpful and politically correct. Red king crab – $ 2,000.
Aperitif at La Maree.
We tried Pozharsky fish cutlet from 5 kinds of fish with mashed potatoes and LA MAREE fish soup with saffron and garlic toast. The food is perceived as freshly cooked and devoid of pseudo gastronomic effects. In the fish market – fish from twenty countries, fresh catch daily. The restaurant is one of the suppliers of fresh fish for the Kremlin (information from a personal chef of Dmitry Medvedev).
Pushkin restaurant does not need my review and is known for its interiors, drilled staff and Russian cuisine with French upgrade. Andrei Dellos focused his business on the Mu-Mu chain, and therefore could well afford to invest in the superabundance of Turandot. I must say that there are more than enough of luxury and good decor. We were not hungry and that’s why satisfied by coffee in painted porcelain.
Waitress in Turandot.
In the evening we reserved at a new restaurant Christian. Clone of the famous Williams. (Ginza) Kutuzov Avenue, Hotel “Ukraine”. The responsible for kitchen here is a Tuscan from Siena Christian Lorenzini.
With Christian and Andrey.
Author’s restaurant with an accent on domesticity in the interior (photos of Christian grandparents, and his kid and wedding looks). People-floor-lamps with lampshades on their heads are perceived artistically. We tried Spaghetti ice; Grechetto; pate-ball in honor of a fallen meteorite in Chelyabinsk in activated carbon. Charming and affable chef-brunet is perceived in the cold Moscow tracery and theatrically.
Christian tells about meteorite.
Having passed the half of Moscow, we reached Ragout 2.0. Olympic prospect, 16. The chef and the main person of the restaurant – Alexei Zimin, famous by literary style, by almost Boyar beard and by editorship earlier in GQ and now in Afisha-Eda Magazine. The restaurant is a unified gastronomic space – restaurant, market, culinary school and grill-bar. We tried: Tea with ginger and fresh orange juice; Appetizers: beets and goat cheese millefeuille; hummus with tahini and falafel; vegetable terrine with goat cheese; three kinds of autumn pate. Tomato soup in Maghreb style – very tasty. Cauliflower risotto with anchovy and chocolate and corn tortelloni with celeriac sauce is perceived extremely controversial. Royal Rabbit we liked very much too.
Rabbit in Stew.
In sum: modern and very tasty.
For the last dinner we couldn’t get into Williams and were constrained to go to Novikov. (Arkady Novikov), Tverskaya Street, 3. The chef is Lloyd Roberts (London). Kitchen – Asian + dashed Italian. Black and red color, giant relic eastern driftwood eroded by mosquitoes (not suited for the London restaurant, moved to Moscow) . Open black marble fish and vegetable showcase glacier. We tried: Crispy zucchini slices with aioli sauce. Quite suitable for a cafe with bill for $ 30. Steamed sea bass with ginger-soy sauce – improvisation for tourists on Asian theme. Everything is anxiously average. The third of the ordered dishes was not available; pasta was from the store in front. Restaurant is a complete despair and frustration … especially after visit to the same name project in London.
So: I recommend, if you have enough money, to go for dinner at the restaurant Fish and at La Maree. If you have time to get there, I advise you to dine in Ragout 2.0. I liked more the food in Williams than in Christian, but here opinions can disperse. Must try ) ) For a romantic date with Keira Knightley is quite possible to go to Turandot, but only if your clothing allows) ) To the rest of the restaurants you can go alone and dotty.
* Thanks to Alex Gubkin for the invitation to test – ride dinner at Montana and for the opportunity to taste the restaurant’s menu updates at Fish.
Moscow, Version 1.0