Posts Tagged “travel”

Waiter from Funchal

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Madeira, Funchal, market, products

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Porto – traditional and rather not restored architecture… Many buildings are in the untouched state already 150 years. The special charm is added by the facing of some facades with ceramics and ornate and always different mini balconies. The cast-iron and steel wickerwork has marked Moroccan motifs, as ornaments on ceramics. There is a lot of ultramarine in the colors of ceramics. The impact of colonial possessions of Portugal in past is felt.

The first restaurant Salsa e Loureiro was recommended by the manager from the company Ramos Pinto. The cuisine of the restaurant the chef Hélio Loureiro described as a gastronomic and typical for north of Portugal. He recommended the course from pork Rozoes, which is served with salsa Papas de Sarrabulho made from pork blood, pork, chicken and bread. The taste is very expressive but unpleasant for me. The pork itself was cooked in the lard. The taste is also impressive enough and a little rough because of the lard. The basic work of Hélio Loureiro is to cook for Portuguese football team when they have away matches. And exactly Hélio recommended us the restaurant with simplest and typical food in Porto, Casa Aleixo. The restaurant is situated in the most not tourist part of the city and it doesn’t advertise itself in the hotels and guides, but the taxi drivers know it and it has certain image. The room is hanged all over with diplomas and press cuttings where this restaurant is mentioned. There are 5 main courses and 10 appetizers which aren’t changing from the moment of opening in the menu. The family works at the restaurant. The food is cooked at the kitchen which area is 6-7 metres, it can be seen in full from the table. It is difficult to talk about special taste because the hake and the octopus were fried in flour and eggs within 5 minutes and resembled very much home Odessan food. The rice with pieces of octopuses was cooked beforehand and it was cold in the plate. Everything is cheap, vapid and rather tasteless.

The morning of the second day started from the visit to company Sandeman. Next to Porto, in the small town Villa da Gaia, are situated all another producers of porto wine, beginning from the oldest one Сruz up to ten companies which age is no more then 30 years old. Only during the correspondence with director responsible for our region it was understood that they don’t experience the lack of visitors and that is why we didn’t count on some special hospitality. In the result, in the cold and dark room, among tuns with logos we were told about differences of wines from the Douro valley and about the history of company’s logo which was drawn by George Massiot Brown as far back as 200 year ago. Then they showed us 10 minutes movie in Russian and then was short tasting of three porto wines and one table wine Galabriga 2007. The wine Barca Velha recommended us as local great one we are expect to taste already at the restaurants.

Empty and furnished like coffee house restaurant Bacalhoeiro which was recommended by Sandeman was ignored by us in the favor of neighboring one with very long name «Adega e presuntaria trasmontana II». Short menu and excellent atmosphere were noticed at once, and we had a luck with choice as it turned out later. All the guest of the restaurant get at once on their tables mini set of appetizers: anchovies marinated in special way, olives with garlic and oil, then small boar covered by parchment  with a few types of local sausage and jamón. A few minutes later we were served hot appetizer from local frankfurters Alheira and a pie with filling from the same frankfurters. The special feature of these frankfurters is that except the pork and local spices it contains a sort of local bread. We chose the main course by ourselves as we wanted the octopus initially. The waiter specified that their octopus is served with potatoes and pepper. It was very delicious. The amount of the 50 Euros for two persons only highlighted the success of the choice. In the result we had dinner there again but only we have ordered additionally Belhota — the verity of jamón with huge term of aging.

The third day’s morning began from the visit to Ramos Pinto.  We were met very benevolently by Ana Perina from the guest relation service and she told us about how one of the employers who was involved in marketing at Sandeman left the company and organized his own company in 1820. Аndre, it was the name of this employer, have chosen the provocation in visual communications and the quality in the products as the points of difference. As opposed to Sandeman the portfolio of the company contained and contains now 50% of dry wines and 50% of porto wines. One more difference of the company Ramos Pinto was in very beautiful decorated office located near the Sandeman. However the globalization have applied to both companies. Ramos Pinto was bought by Frenchmen from Louis Roederer and Sandeman became one of the purchases of one Spanish bank. Today 80% of local wines market are controlled by 5 companies. In fact this information and many other things about Ramos Pinto wines we heard from the second Ana, export manager, who already 20 years is involved in the company’s issues.

According to Ana Rato word the market of porto wines looks like this:

  • Symigton Group: Graham`s, Dow`s, Warre`s;
  • Taylor`s: Taylor, Fonsecca, Romariz — all the brands produce only porto;
  • Sogevinus: Calem, Barros, Kopke, Burmester;
  • Sogrape: Sandeman, Offley, Ferreira;
  • Cruz: one brand which produces only porto.

The next Ana Rozas  from Ramos Pinto, the member of the family and great granddaughter of the company’s founder, is involved in blending of wines. It was she who held the rtasting of porto. The tastes of 10-20 and 30-year-old porto differ not much, but they are much more interesting and impressive then ordinary porto. The color of old ports is rather cognac then dark red like ordinary ruby and tawny.

The gastronomic restaurant Sessenta Setenta recommended by the second Ana turned out to be a delicious one. There were the owner, the chef and his guests and we in the restaurant. The pupil Jose Pedro Corvalho cooks. The boy has very eccentric appearance and his uniform is not very clean but nevertheless he cooks very carefully and precise. All the tastes selected very delicately and they have been perceived excellently in spite of too gastronomic serving. The amount of check 70 Euros for two tasting sets consisited from five courses seemed for us to be funny, especially on the background of Kiev or Dnepropetrovsk for example. In the daytime one waiter works in the restaurant and in the kitchen the chef cooks and his pupil washes the plates.

In the afternoon we visited one more restaurant recommended by Ana. This time it was fish restaurant Lusiadas. A huge selection of very fresh fish and seafood… I failed to find  only small octopuses, calamari and scallops. All the rest in the form of small portions was hardly placed on the table and cost 70 Euros with tips. We refused from thee hot plate as the dinner was late. This time there were guests but no more then 20 persons in the room intended for 130-140 persons.

Restaurant  Salsa & Loureiro   Av. Da Boavista, 1277, piso -1  Porto

Restaurant Casa Aleixo   Rua da Estação 216 Porto

Restaurant Bacalhoeiro Av. Diogo Leite, 74 Vila Nova de Gaia

Restaurant  Adega e presuntaria trasmontana II  Avenida Diogo Leite 80 Vila Nova de Gaia

Restaurant Sessenta Setenta  Rua Sobre o Douro 1 A Porto

Restaurant Lusiadas   Rua Tomás Ribeiro, 552  Porto

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Andouillette is sausage made from pork entrails seasoned  with onions and  parsley, served hot. It has very specific sour smell..</p>

Bouchon  is a traditional restaurant of Lyons. There are only local dishes in the menu.

Boundin  is a sort of black pudding.

Bouton de culotte  is very small and round cheese made from goat’s milk.

Bugne  is a sort of thin and fried beaten up watery pastry.

Cardons  is a plant  similar to artichoke, it is cooked with bone-marrow and served baked after having been strewed with cheese and dried breadcrumbs.

 Cervelas is a small, short sausage, it resembling a little Bolognese smoked sausage with truffles and pistachios, it is served cold with seasoning made from vinegar and olive oil,often with greens.

 Cervelle de Canut  is white cheese with a slight  garlic smack, it is served with salt and pepper cutted into thin pieces

 Cochot de lait  is sucking pig.

 Cochonnailles  is a plate of different sorts of cold pork, ham, different sausages (andouille, Jesus, a l’ail …) with pickles and garnished mayonnaise.

 Cousin  is sweets made from almond paste.

 Cocon is a sweets made from green almond paste.

 Dragees  is almond in sugar.

 Foie de veau is veal leaver fried fast in the oil at high heat.

 Gateau de foie de volaille is the speciality cooked from poultry leaver .

 Gesiers  is sliced stomaches of poultry, served warm on the escarole with seasoning made from vinegar and olive oil, often with greens.

 Gras double  is a stomach, served hot or cold with onions.

 Gratons is fatty pork, fried and dried and it is served as appetizer.

 Jesus  is Lyons version of «saucisson sec”- sausage-like light meat appetizer.

 Museau de boeuf is sliced beef lips or brawn with cutted onion and seasoning made from vinegar and olive oil, often with greens.

Oeuf meurette is stewed eggs a la «Lyons», served with wine sauce, croutons, cubes of becon and white onion.

 Petit sale aux lentilles is  salty  pork with lentil.

 Pied de cochon  is pork knuckles, served grilled (hot) or marinated (cold) with sauce.

 Pied de veau  is veal knuckles, served grilled (hot) or marinated (cold) with sauce.

 Pot  is a small bottle with thick bottom.

 Quenelles – is dumplings made from milk, flour, eggs and butter.

 Quenelles de Brochet  is a pike in the pastry.

 Queue de boeuf  is a beef tail.

 Rigotte  is a small cheese made from goat’s cheese.

 Rosette is a Lyons version of «saucisson sec”- sausage-like light meat appetizer.

 Saint Marcelline  is a cheese made from cow’s milk.

 Salade lyonnaise is a salad with cubes of bacon and croutons.

 Sausission a l’ail is sausage-like light meat appetizer with a slight smack of garlic, served sliced.

 Sausission sec – is sausage-like light meat appetizer, a little fatty and rather dry, served sliced.

Tablier
de sapeur  is an entrails of stomach (beef, veal or pork) in the breading.

 Tete de veau is a veal head cutted into pieces. Served with harsh sauce with greens, garlic, vinegar, oil and eggs or with sauce gribiche — sauce made from vinegar with yolk and herbs.

 Tripes  is an entrails of stomach of an animal, usually beef, veal or pork. Served hot in the spicy dressing with pepper.

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A good middle level without superfluous perfectionism.

 The kiosk with sausages at Václavské

I visit Prague several times a week already 9 years. When my partner and I have decided to open the restaurant in Prague there are a lot of restaurants but really needed and correspondingly profitable  restaurant were no more then 30-40. And at that among the constantly visited the special respect have excited jus a few: Kampa Park, the chain Ambiente and of course La Provence and Bazar. The changing of the demand and rating have been made successively and in concord with my own ideas about the ideal restaurant. The different restaurants especially those which were opened by the foreigners have been interpreted only as a caprice for the  residents of Moscow-Kiev-Kazakhstan in the country where the culture of public catering is represented in general by the beerhouses and persons with noodles and pork knee. The majority of the tourists still enjoy the local street food and it should be noted it much more interesting ten the same food in Ukraine or in Russia. The tenth of street pavilions selling the frankfurters and the local sausages served about 10 000 tourists during the day only in Václavské náměstí.  Also in autumn –winter period there are about 15-20 similar pavilions are at Staromestske namesti. Everyone sells boiled wine and numerous simple street dishes. The culture of cooking and serving is very high. It is not shawarma in Odessa or in the capital in the greasy spoon with the area of two meters without water and sewer system. It is clean and civilized here. The disposable tableware, clean grills and other kitchen equipment and of course friendly and clean dressed sellers-cooks who speaks English. The majority of the sellers of sausages and other street delicacies  have come here to make money from Ukraine, Byelorussia and Russia.

Today Prague if can not to pretend to the birth of the gastronomic trends like Paris and London for example but everyone can eat of home here  for sure and it will be guaranteed civilized and cultural irrespective of the amount of the check. Such a moderate  projects like  Pizza Coloseum with charming pizzaiolo Antonio, Bakershop or half confectioner’s shop Gourmand with the tables in the room offering Czech  in the modern arrangement and it constantly busy at a price 15-25 Euros. The Italian Aromi  and new restaurant La Finestra of the same owner, Italian Riccardo are fully booked anf they take the reservations only several days before. And the check for the excellent food of 50-55 Euros but without wine doesn’t look like excessive because of noisy elegant atmosphere and fresh products. The waitress in his restaurants do not flirt and cut the fish skillfully and the barman opens the Prosecco with skill. The renovated La Veranda of my former partner Yuriy Kolesnik sees sincere on Fridays and Saturdays.

The expensive in everything and with pretension on premier cru restaurants are open and then close every month but there are some long-lived persons in this sector. The restaurant Flambe with the check of 130 Euros or Allegro in the hotel Four Seasons with the check of 150 Euros also work but  they are satisfied with rather small quantity of the guest and sometimes with the banquets. The Croats owning the successful Kogo and offering the Italian menu at a price of standard 30 Euros have tried to open glamorous  Le Angolo but neither the Bently Bar in the restaurant nor an excellent location do nor guarantee even 20% of tables occupancy.

The fine dining which has discredited itself bulkly in Ukraine and in Prague doesn’t see as expected. But the main offer beer with a view on the Vlatva and fried sausage with mustard reproduce precise surprisingly the spirit of amazingly beautiful and not a bit pro Soviet old city already long ago here.

I recommend:

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We have planed this trip a few months ago.  We have selected  the interesting places thoroughly for a long time. The plan of the trip consists in four pages and one of them is booking of the restaurants. We are planning to visit wine company Ceretto, the production of the cheeses Formai de Mut, the farm and mini production Luiset Agrisalumeria, the company Giovanni Colombo and the company Ocelli, we will try to find the truffels with the instructor and a pig near Alba, then lesson of cooking the pasta  at Casa Scaparone and moving to Milan. In Milan we will visit the exhibition Host and four special restaurants.

If anyone knows an interesting places in Bergamo, Alba, Pavia and Milan please advice. There is some time  to give a more precise definitions to the plan.

If anyone will decide to go to Bergamo, Pavia, Alba, Milan just write to me and I will advice with whom should you speak and what to see.

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