The chef of Istanbul restaurant Paper Moon Giuseppe Pressani told me one day that his favorite Bistecca alla Fiorentina came to Italy from Central Europe in XVII century. The Apennine Peninsula already at that times was a magnet for European élite from whom Italians have borrowed the recipe of beef steak — a piece of beef, cooked in the square enormous braziers. Sure Giuseppe held back the fact that at those far-off days the majority of guests have visited Italy not as tourist but as the officers of occupation Habsburg army…
For the steak’s culture is typical not only extensive mythology but also detailed classification, which is rather difficult to catch on for a profane. In USA the beef carcass cutting map numbers 45 kinds of meat in seven categories, 11 of them are suited for steak. In Italy 19 kinds of meat are suited for steak, they have different names in different regions. For example, in Tuscany a piece of beef fillet which the butchers call lombata, it is usual to name Bistecca alla Fiorentina, in Pesaro — Costata di manzo, in Turin — Bistecca alla Torino. More confused classification is in France.
In spite of all these complications, in the best restaurants of the world the steaks selection is very modest. La Giostra in Florence has in its menu Fiorentina alla Fiorentina and a few options of Filetto from chianina (meat of Tuscan cows), which are served with Armagnac, Lorenco’s old balsamic vinegar and with white truffles in season. Jean-Pierre Bruneau from the restaurant of the same name in Brussels and Paul Bocuse in the L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges offer only Filet de boeuf la Rossini with Périgueux sauce and truffles cut in large slices. And in one of the most authoritative New York steak houses — Peter Luger is cooked actually only one type of steak since 1887.
Some Kiev restaurants shouldn’t offer their guest up to 25 options of steaks juggling by the terms. Placing in the menu ten of classical steaks under different names, our restaurateurs just pull people’s leg.
At the least one kind of steak can be cooked excellently at home.
You need to take the most fresh beef bought at the reliable place and after three-week maturing just to roast it a little till the condition very rare or blue (i.e. so that the meat will be rather warm then hot)— and steak is ready without any sauces–side dishes–spices.
But here I must to make a stipulation. Excellent beef in Ukraine is rarity; that is why the main task of cook is to mask the average quantity of initial product. To the buyers of beef fillet from Privoz or Bessarabsky markets I would offer to concentrate on variant of French steak — Tournedos Rossini. Tournedo is called chain muscle removed perfect center-cut filet mignon from the tenderloin. For two persons will be enough one kilogram of meat cut in four pieces 250 grams each one. Season the steaks and let them to come to room temperature, then sauté them in the clarified butter on both sides to the desired doneness, I prefer “with blood” — rare. Pat off the cooking fat with paper towels and place on heated plates. Place a slice of warm terrine of foie gras on each tournedo. Pour the sauce Périgourdine over and serve.
The easiest way to prepare thin version of sauce is simply to infuse white truffle slices in a deeply flavored beef or appropriately flavored clear brown stock for 10 minutes over low heat. (It is simpler to bring truffles from Milanese grocery store Peck in ladies’ purse then a piece of meat.) At worst you can use a tea spoon of truffle butter — it will mask as beef so as cook’s skill no worse then truffles. But truffles are more effective undoubtedly. At least because you will be able to add to the steak your personal legend about contraband of mushrooms from Alba. The guest will appreciate it.
Specially for Forbes Ukraine
March, 2011
Restaurateur Saveliy Libkin
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